Tag Archive for 'Tongariro'

On Walkabout On: New Zealand’s Volcanic Highway

The final thing my wife and I did during our visit of the Taupo region of New Zealand was to drive around the entire Tongariro National Park on the Volcanic Highway. I have depicted the highway on the below satellite image of this spectacular national park:

This extremely scenic drive begins on the southern shore of Lake Taupo in the small town of Turangi and follows Highway 1 south along what is known as Desert Road. Desert Road doesn’t seem like much of a desert at first because of all the trees that surround the highway, but eventually the trees begin to thin out and we were rewarded with spectacular views of Mt. Ngauruhoe:

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What I found interesting about this road was that it is the main north-south highway link between New Zealand’s major population center Auckland and it’s national capitol Wellington and it is a narrow single lane road filled with dangerous curves. The highway is made more dangerous because of the amount of the many semi-trucks that traverse this narrow road. Little did we know is that this road is actually quite good compared to what we found later on during our tour of the south island where the roads were even more dangerous.

Eventually the road straightened out and lived up to its desert name as little vegetation was evident on both sides of the road:

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Looking towards the east, as far as I could see was barren land covered with sage grass:

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Finding a desert in the middle of New Zealand was something I did not expect before traveling here so it was really quite stunning to see. This desert is formed because of prior eruptions of the active volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park that loom over the highway. The left over lava rock is only conducive for this sage grass to grow in thus creating this desert like environment:

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Towards the end of the Desert Road the highway actually passes through a major New Zealand military training range where some scenes from the Lord of the Rings trilogy were filmed. This training land is dwarfed by the gigantic 2,797 meter active volcano of Mt. Ruapehu:

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Mt. Ruapehu has erupted as early as last year and has claimed many lives over the years, but no volcanic activity was evident the day we drove through. Desert Road ends in the small town of Waiouru which is a good place to eat lunch and if you have time tour the New Zealand military museum there.

From Waiouru the Volcanic Highway proceeds east from highway 1 and on to highway 49. What is really interesting is how quickly the terrain turns from the desert environment into emerald green grazing land filled with sheep:

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Looking at the views of Mt. Ruapehu from the south makes the mountain look like a scene that would fit right into the Pacific Northwest back in America:

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Like the volcanoes in America’s northwest this volcano can be skied as well. The mountain has two ski resorts and is thought to be the world’s only active volcano with ski resorts on it.

After a short drive along the southern boundary of the national park the Volcanic Highway than turns on to Highway 4 heading north which featured thickly forested terrain, rivers, and many bridges like this railway bridge pictured below:

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From the forested lands the terrain eventually shifts into farming land overshadowed by the park’s stunning volcanoes such as the 2,287 meter Mt. Ngauruhoe:

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I thought this kiwi sign provided an excellent iconic picture of New Zealand:

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Here are pictures of my wife and I each taking a picture with this iconic sign:

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From Highway 4 the Volcanic Highway then turns onto Highway 47 heading northeast back to Turangi and eventually the highway exits the forested terrain and returns to the desert region on the national park’s western side providing stunning views of Mt. Ruapehu:

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If you look closely in the above picture you can actually see the old Chateau Tongariro that served as the hotel for the cast and crew of the Lord of the Rings crew while filming Mordor scenes here at Tongariro National Park.

Mt. Ngauruhoe served as the stand in for Tokien’s Mt. Doom and this picture shows you why:

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Add some CGI effects and I would have thought I was staring right into Mordor, but fortunately I wasn’t in Mordor, but beautiful New Zealand.

Further down the road we were able to get views of 1,967 meter Mt. Tongariro as well:

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Mt. Tongariro is extremely sacred to New Zealand’s native Maori people due to a legend that links the volcano to the ancient Maori gods:

Legend links Ngatoroirangi with the creation of volcanoes and the naming of Tongariro. According to one version, the priest traveled inland to explore the island and claim land for his people. As he climbed to the summit of Tongariro, a strong south wind brought extremely cold weather. Nearly chilled to death and exhausted by the climb, Ngatoroirangi called out for help from his sisters in the far-away Maori homeland, Hawaiki.

They came to him in the form of fire under the earth, leaving a trail of geysers and volcanoes in their path and emerging at Tongariro to warm the priest. Thus, the volcanic landscape represents a genealogic link with the historic homeland of Hawaiki, and the mountains are revered as tribal ancestors. The name Tongariro—“tonga” (south wind) and “riro” (seized)—commemorates the cold wind that almost killed Ngatoroirangi.

In order to protect the holy status of these lands the Maori people donated Tongariro to the New Zealand government in 1894 to be protected as a national park which is what it remains today and has even gone on to be designated in 1993 as a United Nations World Heritage Area.

Shortly past the views of the legendary Mt. Tongariro the highway then entered into thickly wooded forest again. Along the way my wife and I stopped at the remains of an old Maori village along the shores of Lake Rotoaira. It was interesting to see the old ruins of the old Maori homes and structures scattered around the area:

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From the village the Maori people who used to live here had an excellent view of their holy mountain, Mt. Tongariro:

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From the Maori village we continued to drive down the highway and back to Turangi but not before stopping at one final lookout and taking this picture of beautiful Lake Taupo:

If you do not have the fitness level or time to walk the Tongariro Crossing a trip around the Volcanic Highway is a worthy substitute. The bottom line is you have to see this wonderful park some how and driving around it is the easiest way to do it.

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On Walkabout On: The Final Descent of the Tongariro Crossing

After crossing through the heart of New Zealand’s Tongariro Crossing the trail opened up from the volcanic otherworld inside the volcano to providing a spectacular view looking north over the smaller Lake Rotoaira and the gigantic Lake Taupo:

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In the distance of the above photograph you can see the small volcano Mt. Tauhara which is the volcano just outside the beautiful city of Taupo. The view from the side of Mt. Tongariro is really breathtaking and quite a sight, but unfortunately it was time to start descending this massive volcano. However, before I could start the descent I had to traverse a few more areas of hazardous snow banks on the side of the mountain:

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If I would have slipped and fell off these snow banks I would have literally rolled down the mountain. The next photo makes it quite evident how steep the hillsides are:

Side of Mt. Tongariro, New Zealand

If you look closely you can see a hiker on the trail that looks like an ant compared to the massive hillsides of this spectacular volcano. As the trail switchbacked down the side of the volcano I plenty of additional opportunities to admire the view:

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Going down the side of Mt. Tongariro takes a lot longer than I thought it would because of how many switchbacks I had to traverse to go down the hillside. I could see the Ketetahi Hut in front of me, but it felt like I was never going to reach it:

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I could see a boiling geyser of steam behind the hut as well:

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However, by looking back up the mountain I can tell how far I had come from the wintry slopes of the volcano:

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After about an hour of switchbacking down the side of the mountain I finally came to the Ketetahi Hut which provides basic facilities for hikers and campers to use. I just sat down on the bench in front of the hut, ate some snacks, and admired the view looking towards the west:

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Adjacent to the hut you can sit back and watch the bubbling steam of the Ketetahi Hot Springs that bursts to life on the side of the volcano:

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The trail down the mountain continues from the hut and passes right by the Ketetahi Hot Springs, but unfortunately the hot springs is considered private property and hikers are not allowed to visit the site. This is the closest I was able to get to take a picture of the hot springs:

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This hot spring since hot mineral laden water rushing down the side of the volcano:

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Before long I was towards the bottom of the volcano and took one last look upwards before continuing to follow the trail into the dense forest that awaited me:

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The volcanic plains instantly stops and gives way to a thick forest that I had to descend through next:

Tongariro Crossing Forest Trail

I can only assume that the soil further up the volcano must be to rocky and unsuitable for trees compared to the lower slopes I found myself in now to explain such an instantaneous switch in vegetation. There was more than trees I had to contend with but rushing water as well:

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The roaring water through the forest had actually flooded portions of the trail that I had to skirt around which made descending down this volcano even more difficult. Another interesting note about this water is that there was signs posted along the trail warning walkers not to drink the water because of the strong mineral content in it. This is something I would notice later on during my tour of the north island is that anyone thinking about trying out local water sources need to use caution because so much of the water is filled with dangerous minerals.

The water flowing through the forest really makes quite a scenic picture near the very end of the trail:

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Finally I hit the home stretch and a flat trail for the first time since I started descending the volcano:

Tongariro Crossing Trail

At the end of the Tongariro Crossing it is literally a madhouse with the amount of backpackers sitting around partying and waiting for their respective buses to come pick them up. Plenty of loud music and beverages being shared with the youth crowd there sharing stories about their experiences in New Zealand.

My wife was waiting for me at the parking lot and she to was eager to here what my hike through the the Tongariro Crossing was like. I’m not exaggerating when I say that this day hike is indeed one of the best I have ever done and definitely the most unique. I had crossed a barren desert, climbed a live volcano, walked across an otherworldly terrain of fire and ice, and hiked through a dense rainforest all in the same hike that encompassed a total of about eight hours. Not too many hikes in the world can encompass such a variety of terrains in such a small package as the Tongariro Crossing.

Anyone visiting the north island of New Zealand would be doing themselves a great disservice by not visiting this park and allocating the time necessary to walk the Tongariro Crossing because it is absolutely spectacular and pictures do not do this place justice. This is a place that has to be seen to believed and I’m glad I had a chance to see it.

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On Walkabout In: The Heart of New Zealand’s Tongariro Crossing

After climbing down from the slopes of Mt. Ngahuruhoe, I quickly found myself hiking through the heart of New Zealand’s Tongariro Crossing, which can be summed up in one word as spectacular:

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As shown on the map below the heart of the Tongariro Crossing runs from Mt. Ngauruhoe to Blue Lake via the Red Crater:

Climbing down from the volcanic Mt. Ngauruhoe brought me into a volcanic basin that was extremely muddy due to the melting snow:

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Since I spent roughly three hours on Mt. Ngauruhoe before rejoining the main trail I quickly noticed that the trail was now filled with many more hikers compared to the early morning hours from when I started the hike. After crossing the basin I had to climb a steep rocky ridgeline:

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From the top of the ridgeline I had a magnificent view looking out towards eastern desert lands of the national park:

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I could also make out the picture perfect volcanic cone of Mt. Taranaki way out to the west:

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Looking behind back to the west I was presented with a absolutely stunning view of Mt. Ngauruhoe or for you Lord of the Rings fans, Mt. Doom:

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In the above picture you can easily see the reddish area I tried to climb up on the volcano before stopping after seeing the volcanic gas coming out of the crater. To the right you can see the snowfield I tried to navigate through before heading back down.

From this viewpoint the trail continued up another steep ridgeline running up the side of Mt. Tongariro. Once to the top of this ridgeline I began to smell volcanic gas again and found myself looking into what is known as the Red Crater:

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Not only could you smell the volcanic gas that smelled like rotten eggs, but just like on Mt. Ngauruhoe you could see it as well:

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There was no lethal gas signs around this area so there was no issues walking through this area even though there was gas. Ironically this area despite the volcanic gas was the busiest portion of the trail as hikers were backed up trying to scramble down the steep ridgeline while simultaneously dodging people trying to take pictures of the scenic landscape.

While walking down along the ridgeline of the Red Crater I presented with an other worldly view in front of me that quickly made me one of the guys taking out his camera to take a picture and holding up people hiking on the trail.  With pictures like this who can blame him?

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Here is a closer look at the stunning blue crater lake:

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To add to the other worldly feeling I was having up here, below me were the three stunning Emerald Lakes:

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The closer I walked to the lakes the greener they actually appeared to get:

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From the Emerald Lakes I had a good view of the volcanic ridgeline along the Red Crater that I had just scrambled down:

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From the Emerald Lakes the trail continued across this other worldly landscape towards the Blue Lake:

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While walking across this volcanic basin I was glad I was wearing by waterproof boots because I had much snow, water, and mud to walk through:

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Eventually the trail began another ascent up the side of the crater toward the Blue Lake:

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From the top of the Blue Lake crater’s rim I had a great view of the ridgeline from Red Crater down through the basin that I had just hiked across:

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Also from this viewpoint I could see that Red Crater was once a cone volcano much like Mt Ngauruhoe, but at some point had blown up in ferocious eruption destroying the cone and leaving it simply to his gas today. Could this be the fate of Mt. Ngauruhoe one day? If it is I hope I’m not around when it happens because the explosion that destroyed Red Crater had to have been extremely powerful.

It was kind of cool as well to sit there and see the people walking down the slopes of the Red Crater looking like little ants on a ant hill:

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I could as well from this view point still see the noxious gases rising from Mt. Ngahuruhoe:

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After admiring the view across the basin I was presented with another stunning view of Blue Lake:

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Here on the shores of Blue Lake I sat down and ate a well deserved lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and chocolate moon pies. While sitting down having lunch I was contemplating to myself what the Maori must have thought of this place when they first explored the area. They had never seen snow much less a fantastic volcanic landscape like this, so it is really no wonder why the Maori consider the Tongariro National Park to be extremely holy land.

Anyway after completing my lunch I began to move on and follow the trail around the lake and up another ridgeline. From the top of the ridgeline I was rewarded with my last view of this otherworldly landscape:

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Looking below me to the north I could see the trail was leading to me to final descent of the Tongariro Crossing:

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Next Posting: The Final Descent of the Tongariro Crossing

Prior Posting: On the Slopes of Mt. Doom

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On Walkabout On: New Zealand’s Mt. Ngauruhoe, AKA: Mt. Doom

Along New Zealand’s spectacular Tongariro Crossing intrepid walkers have the option of climbing the formidable Mt. Ngauruhoe volcano that constantly looms over hikers throughout the first half of the hike:

Mt. Ngauruhoe, New Zealand

The volcano is nearly a perfectly shaped cone that is easily recognizable as the stand in for Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings film trilogy:

The volcano is truly a spectacular sight to see.  The side trip to the summit of the 2,291 meter Mt. Ngauruhoe is supposed to take three hours, but as I would find out, that is highly depended on the conditions on the volcano that day:

Mt. Taranaki from Mt. Ngauruhoe

Before ascending the volcano a number of signs warn hikers about the current conditions on the volcano:

Warning Sign On the Tongariro Crossing

Volcanic Hazard Sign On the Tongariro Crossing

The warnings about lethal volcanic gas and falling rocks I took very seriously before ascending the mountain because even though I have climbed up a variety of mountains before including many that are much higher than Mt. Ngauruhoe, I have never climbed an active volcano before. The closest I have ever came to hiking up an active volcano was by doing some hiking around Mt. St. Helens in Washington State however hikers were not allowed on the active volcanic regions of the mountain. So this was going to be a new experience for me.

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I quickly found out how difficult climbing this volcano was going to be because the cone is made of volcanic ash. Imagine climbing up a mountain of charcoal because that is what this mountain was. I had to climb many areas bent over using both my hands and feet to make progress up the mountain. I was definitely glad I brought my gloves with me. However, progress up this volcano consisted of taking two steps up an sliding one step back in the volcanic ash:

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I felt like Frodo trying to climb Mt. Doom on this climb because of how extremely exhausting the climb was and was made even more tiring by the high altitude which I could definitely feel climbing up the mountain.

Something else I wasn’t expecting was the amount of falling rocks. It was incredibly scary the amount of rocks that would just randomly coming flying down the mountain at me. If one of these rock would have hit me it would have easily injured me, knocked me out, and even kill me. I don’t know if the rocks were falling because of the shifting of the volcano that was on going when I was there or because of the melting snow pack, but whatever it was, it was definitely something I needed to keep hyper alert for to dodge the incoming rocks.

After an hour and a half of slow, but steady progress up the mountain, I eventually came towards the crater and then began to see and smell volcanic gas pumping out of the mountain:

Gas from Ngauruhoe

I remembered the skull and cross bones signs warning about hazardous volcanic gas earlier and I also remember when I visited the Taupo Museum, reading a newspaper article they had posted about a man that was rescued by fellow climbers on nearby Mt. Ruapehu due to being overcome by volcanic gas.

I decided not to take my chances with the volcanic gas and try to find another way up the mountain. I started walking down the mountain and trying to work my way around the snow pack to my right. While going down I tried to warn a group of climbers going up the mountain about the gas up ahead but most them proceeded up the mountain anyway. The only two that didn’t were a Japanese couple that decided to come with me to see if we could get up the volcano another way. While going down and working our way to the right the hikers above us were kicking rocks down on us that made the conditions even more dangerous than before.

Ultimately it proved too dangerous trying to cross the snow pack because of how steep the volcano was combined with how slippery the snow was. The snow pack on the volcano was literally a sheet of ice. Additionally the falling rocks fell like bullets going down the snow making it even more dangerous to proceed through the snow fields:

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I gave up trying to work my way through the snow pack plus I was extremely exhausted and still had a long ways to go on this day to finish the hike, plus this excursion used up a whole lot of my energy. The Japanese couple that followed me agreed and they decided to give up on this summit attempt through the snow as well. From where I was I still got a stunning picture of Mt. Tongariro that loomed in front of me:

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The Tongariro Crossing trail crosses the volcanic caldera seen in the below photograph:

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If you look closely at the picture you can actually see the trial itself. After admiring the view for a while and catching my breath I proceeded back down the mountain.

Once down the mountain and gazing back at it, I realized the reason why the left side of the mountain was free of snow was because of the hot gas and volcanic activity I saw coming out of that side of the mountain. The rest of the mountain had a snow pack still on it because it wasn’t as hot:

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I also if did decide to go to the craters rim despite the volcanic gas I would not have been able to reach the actual summit of the volcano because it was completely enclosed in snow as well.  I had no regrets not going up to the crater when I smelled the gas and after mucking around in the snow trying to find another way up to the summit I feel confident that I made the right decision to go back down the mountain because how dangerous the conditions were.

Due to these reasons I highly recommend that a summit attempt on the mountain is best done in the summer when the snow pack is completely melted. With the conditions I was faced with it would have been wise for me to wear a helmet and have crampons to climb in the snow which was gear I did not bring that ultimately led to me turning around on my summit attempt. Even though I didn’t get to the top it still was great fun and quite an experience climbing my first active volcano.

Next Posting: In the Heart of the Tongariro Crossing

Prior Posting: Hiking the Tongariro Crossing

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On Walkabout On: New Zealand’s Tongariro Crossing

If you are into hiking and on the north island of New Zealand you absolutely, positively need to make time available to walk what is considered by many to be the world’s greatest day hike The Tongariro Crossing. The hike is located in Tongariro National Park which is located about an hour south of the beautiful north island city of Taupo in the near center of the island:

Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand’s premier national parks with some of the most spectacular scenery in the entire country. The park is composed of three spectacular volcanoes Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro. All three of these volcanoes are still active with Mt. Ruapehu erupting just last year.

My wife and I had to get up early in order to drive from Taupo to the trail’s start point. Getting up early provided a nice opportunity to see the sunrise over the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park:

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The road to the national park is extremely scenic with it first passing through heavily wooded forest land before giving away to desert shrub:

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It may be hard to believe but New Zealand despite its “clean and green” credentials actually has a large brown desert in the middle of the north island. The volcanoes of this park are definitely the jewels of the desert.

Mt. Ruapehu pictured below is not only the most active volcano on the north island but it is also the highest mountain on the island as well with a summit of 2,797 meters:

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The rocky volcanic terrain around Mt. Ruapehu was actually used as the setting for the land of Mordor in The Lord of the Rings trilogy. My wife and I felt like we were crossing Mordor as we drove our rental car on this rugged dirt road to reach the start point of the Tongariro Crossing:

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Driving down the road provided many scenic views of another iconic image used in the Lord of the Rings movies and that is of Mt. Ngauruhoe pictured above which was depicted as Mt. Doom in the movies. Before long the road finally reached the start point of the trail and I and one other couple were the only ones there that morning:

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It was around 6:00AM now and I was doing this hike solo because my wife has a bad knee and cannot do long and steep hikes like this. Thus she dropped me off and went back to Taupo and was going to pick me up later on that afternoon at the end of the course.  The information shed near the trail’s start point had plenty of good information to read before setting off. The Tongariro Crossing is actually part of a much larger hiking trail known as the Tongariro Northern Circuit that loops around the entire park:

The entire course is supposed to take about four days to accomplish which I would absolutely love to do some day in the future, but for now I was just going to have to settle for the small part of the circuit that the crossing encompasses.  The Tongariro Crossing begins at Mangatepopo Hut which lies in a barren volcanic valley and ends in the lush forests at the bottom of Mt. Tongariro just north of the Ketetahi Hut. The hike covers various and extremely steep terrain across the volcanic spine of the park. I could never forget that these were active volcanoes I was crossing because there was plenty of signs along the way to remind me:

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The signs were a bit ridiculous because they give pointers on what to do if the volcano you are on starts erupting. The advice was of the “Duck & Cover” variety that would be useless if the volcano started to erupt. I made a mental note to myself that if the volcano started to erupt I was just going to run like hell down the side of the mountain that wasn’t erupting. It probably would not do much good either but at least it wasn’t of the Duck & Cover variety.

Fortunately it didn’t appear I was going to have to deal with any eruptions on this day as I started up the trail. As the trail began to ascend up the volcanic valley, I quickly gained a good view of how barren this desert is:

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Here is what the desert looked like right around the trail:

The desert isn’t all desolate though because melting snow from the volcanoes makes various marshlands along the trail that are frequented by many birds:

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Some of these creeks running down the mountain have even created many beautiful waterfalls that can be seen from the trail:

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Some parts of the trail actually had to have boardwalks constructed for it in order to allow hikers to cross some of the larger marshes:

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However most the terrain is of the desert scrub variety shown below:

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Here is a closer look at one of these desert shrubs:

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Eventually the trail reached the top of the valley where I was rewarded with spectacular views of Mt. Ngauruhoe and its massive lava fields:

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The next portion of the trail traverses these massive lava fields from the volcano:

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Amazingly even in these lava fields you could still find spectacular waterfalls that brought life to an otherwise lifeless landscape of rock:

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The trail quickly became extremely steep with pole markers for hikers to follow:

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The trail had been a fairly steady ascent up until this point about an hour and a half into the walk where it became extremely steep and rugged. The climb up the lava rock just didn’t seem to ever end. It actually felt like the snow capped summit of Mt. Ngauruhoe was towering over the trail laughing at me:

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Eventually I did reach the top of the lava rock and was rewarded with spectacular views down the volcanic valley I had hiked up. The start point for the Tongariro Crossing begins just past the hill on the far left of the picture below:

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As you can see in the above picture the desert environment around the volcanoes was created by prior eruptions that spewed molten rock destroying the vegetation. Off in the distance you can slowly see the New Zealand vegetation slowly creeping in and reclaiming the terrain but it may all be for nothing if the volcano erupts again.

From the top of the top of the lava field I was also rewarded with clear views of the 2,518 meter high Mt. Taranaki:

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Mt. Taranaki is part of New Zealand’s Egmont National Park which lies on the north islands west coast. An old Maori legend goes that Mt. Taranaki used to be part of the chain of volcanoes here at Tongariro National Park, but had to flee to its present location because the elder Tongariro caught Taranaki with Tongariro’s lover Pihanga which is a smaller volcano located near Lake Taupo.  During his flight from Tongariro to its current isolated position on the west coast, Taranaki carved out the valley that the Whanganui River runs through between Tongariro and Egmont National Parks. It is also believed that Mt. Taranaki is often cloudy in order for the mountain to hide its tears from losing its lover Pihanga.

There was no clouds to hide Taranaki’s tears the morning I was on the mountain, just beautiful views across the valley. However, I didn’t have long to enjoy the view because a much larger challenge than anything I had faced yet on this hike was waiting for me on the slopes of Mt. Ngauruhoe.

Next Posting: On the Slopes of Mt. Doom 

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