Tag Archive for 'Beechworth'

On Walkabout: Around Beechworth, Victoria

Prior Posting: The Beechworth Cemetery

———————————————

There are a number of sights around the historic city of Beechworth that are worth checking out. The easiest place to visit is the Chinese garden constructed on the outskirts of town:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The garden looks fairly new and was constructed to honor Beechworth’s Chinese heritage. Adjacent to the garden is a large lake filled with ducks:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The rumor is that the lake is actually a nice place to do some fishing, that is if you can escape the ducks:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

To tell you the truth I’m not even sure if these are ducks but they are an Aussie bird that lives in the lake. A whole flock of them followed my wife and I as we walked around the lake. If we stopped the birds came out of the lake to look for handouts I’m assuming.

After walking around the lake we took a drive along the gorge road that begins on the north side of town. The road begins by driving through some rolling hills and then follows a spectacular gorge that runs along the western side of the town that was panned for gold by the early prospectors. The beginning portion of the road that reaches a few high hilltops, offers a some good views of the surrounding countryside:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

Here is a picture of my Jeep on one of these hilltops:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

Eventually the road leads to the historic Powder Magazine building that was constructed in 1859 to house gunpowder for the miners:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

The building was built in this location outside of town for obvious safety reasons. If you look closely you at the above picture you can see that the building is lined with multiple lightning rods to protect it from lightning strikes. The rods must be doing a good job because the place never blew up while it was in use.

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

From the hilltop the magazine is located on, it offers a great view of the city of Beechworth:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

From this hilltop the road begins its descent into the gorge:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

I could almost visualize the gold miners panning for gold along this creek a 150 years ago:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

After descending into the gorge the road once again ascended up another hillside offering another great view of the surrounding country:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

Before long the road descended back into the scenic final stretch of the gorge:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

The road ends back on the south side of Beechworth with this view of a spectacular waterfall:

Pictures from Around Beechworth, Victoria

If you are visiting Beechworth a drive or a hike through the gorge should be added to your itinerary because it is quite spectacular and was a great way to wrap up a fantastic day in Beechworth.

On Walkabout In: The Beechworth Cemetery

Prior Posting: The Historic Churches of Beechworth

———————————————–

A really interesting sight that should not be missed while visiting the historic city of Beechworth is a trip to the Beechworth Cemetery. A cemetery may not seem like a typical place to go as a tourist, but the Beechworth Cemetery is not your typical cemetery. The place is like a physical reminder of the past lives and history that shaped not only Beechworth, but Victoria in general.

At first glance the place actually looks quite spooky with its large gravestones:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

As you walk through the cemetery you will begin seeing names of people who helped shape the city of Beechworth. Take this man for example:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

As you can see John Drummond’s was a veteran of Waterloo. He was born in Scotland and at age 15 he fought against Napoleon’s troops in 11 battles beginning in 1807 and culminated in fighting in the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. He was discharged from the military in 1828 and eventually immigrated to Australia in 1831. He worked on a farm in Goulburn, Victoria before moving to Beechworth in the early 1850’s at the start of the gold rush. In 1858 Drummond had donated his military pension to the widows of the Crimean War and past away seven years later at age 74. He is one of only four Waterloo veterans buried in Victoria.

The cemetery also has people who killed by Australia’s notorious bushrangers:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

John Wyatt was the landlord of the Wooragee Hotel and on the night of October 15, 1872 held up his hotel and shot him. He did not die immediately, but lasted nine days before succumbing to his wound.

Here is the grave of one of Beechworth’s most elderly people:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

James Ingram was immigrated to Australia from Scotland in 1852 at the age of 27. He lived in Melbourne for a short time before heading up to Beechworth to try his luck with the gold rush. He quickly became a leading member of the community as he threw himself into just about every city development project. He was responsible for opening and management of a number of schools and hospitals while also being one of the public servants responsible for overseeing the cemetery he is buried in. He lived for 73 years in Beechworth and died in 1928 at 100 years of age.

Not all the residents of Beechworth lived to be a hundred years old. In this grave of a sleeping baby is buried seven children from one family:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

The Gammon family lost seven children between 1862-1872 that ranged from 9 weeks to 2 years of age. They all died of various diseases that were common in Australia at the time that have fortunately been cured today.

Other people buried in the cemetery are your stereotypical Australian immigrants, criminals such as this man John Miller, was sentenced to Australia for stealing a handkerchief

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Exiling somebody for stealing a handkerchief may seem insane, but there are plenty of insane people buried in this cemetery as well:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Beechworth was long home to a mental hospital so a number of people of were committed to the institution are buried here at the Beechworth Cemetery.

The cemetery is also home to a large number of Chinese dead as well:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Many Chinese immigrants flooded to Australia during its gold rush period in the 19th Century and Beechworth was no different. In 1852 there was 400 Chinese immigrants and three years later there was over 4,000. Approximately 2,000 of these immigrants are buried here Beechworth Cemetery.

The Chinese Burning Towers at the cemetery were built in 1857:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

The Chinese used these towers to burn paper prayers and meals for the dead. This is a tradition of southern China that indicates that most of the Chinese immigrants are of a Cantonese origin and not Mandarin.

The Chinese population in Beechworth was so large that they had formed their own Chinatown in Beechworth. The Chinese kept good relations with town by giving quite a generous donation in the effort to build the first public hospital in the city in 1856. However, today very few Chinese remain in Beechworth. In fact the last Chinese person buried in the cemetery was in 1932:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Henry Ah Yett lived in Beechworth for over 70 years. He originally came to the city during the gold rush to pan for gold, but eventually opened a market and was a skilled practitioner of herbal medicine. He died in 1932 at the age of 105 years old.

Oddly I did find one Chinese grave outside of the Chinese section of the cemetery:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

This grave for David Ah Yen was in the “Strangers” section the cemetery thus I couldn’t find any information on him. His gravestone was actually nicer than any other Chinese gravestone in the cemetery.

Traveling around the world you run into fellow Americans sometimes in some odd places and Beechworth Cemetery proved to be no different, however the Americans I ran into here were dead:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

This grave is of a American Civil War veteran Jacob Hoffmann. Hoffman immigrated to the United States from Germany at age 17 in 1864 and immediately joined the Union Army as a private. He served with the 4th and 9th New York Cavalries between April 1864 and June 1865. He left the army in 1865 and became a sailor. He arrived in Australia some years later where he married Sophie Esher in 1885 in Beechworth. They had seven children before he pasted away in 1920.

The next American I ran into was James Riley:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Riley was also a veteran of the Civil War. He was born in New Jersey in 1829 and enlisted in the Army 1862 at 33 years of age. He served in the 155th New York Infantry and rose to the rank of First Sergeant. In 1865 he was badly wounded in the Battle of Reams Station and nearly lost his leg. He later immigrated to Australia in 1886 at 57 years of age and married his second wife. He had been married prior in the United States but his first wife died in 1870. Riley died in Beechworth in 1901 at 72 years of age.

The final American I saw at the cemetery was James McCartey Storey:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Storey was a veteran of the Mexican-American War. He was born in New York in 1818 and enlisted in the Army in 1840 where he was sent to the American west to fight Indians. He then later served in the Mexican-American War between 1846 and 1848. He left the service in 1850 and made his way to the California gold fields. Having no luck there he turned his attention down under and traveled to Australia in 1853 where he made his way to the Beechworth gold rush. He eventually opened a boarding house in Beechworth in 1857 and married Eliza Hodgens in 1858 who was a convict from England. Storey died in 1913 at 95 years of age.

I was definitely a bit surprised to find three American war veterans in the cemetery and was a bit embarrassed to see the tattered American flags at the cemetery. Next time I’m in the Beechworth area I’m going to place some new flags to replace the old ones on the graves. I just can’t stand seeing tattered American flags and these veterans deserve better than having a tore up flag on their graves.

Well at least the American veterans were recognized unlike these graves that were simply denoted as strangers since no one even knew who they were:

Picture from the Beechworth Cemetery In Australia

Enough with my rants, as you can see the cemetery really is a window into Beechworth’s past with quite a cast of colorful characters and interesting history. I didn’t get a chance to look at all the graves so there is probably even more graves there with even more interesting stories to tell.

Next Posting: Sights Around Beechworth

On Walkabout In: The Historic Hotels of Beechworth

Prior Posting: The Beechworth Historical & Cultural Precinct

————————————————–

The historic city of Beechworth has a number of historic hotels spread across the city that are beautifully restored and still open for business. Some of the hotels are known for their association with bushrangers and other famous characters in Australian history.

The Nicholas Hotel is known for being the place that Ned Kelly had a bare knuckled fist fight against Wild Wright in 1874 that he won:

Picture of A Historic Hotel In Beechworth, Victoria

Kelly had did three years in jail because Wright had asked him to look after a horse that Kelly claims he did not know was stolen. Kelly got in fight with a policemen who saw him riding through the town of Greta with the horse and accused him of stealing it. The grudge between Kelly and Wright was settled with a fight here at the Nicholas Hotel.

The Empire Hotel is right across the street from the Nicholas Hotel:

Picture of A Historic Hotel In Beechworth, Victoria

The most notable thing about the Empire Hotel that was built in the 1850’s is that it is the only hotel in town that has burned down twice and rebuilt in 1867 and 1879.

Go to any small town in Victoria and you are bound to find a “Commercial Hotel” and Beechworth is no different. The Tanswell’s Commercial Hotel in Beechworth was originally owned by J.D. Fisher who had the hotel built as a wood structure in 1853. The hotel was sold to Thomas Tanswell in 1861 who rebuilt the hotel as the brick structure you see today in 1871:

Picture of A Historic Hotel In Beechworth, Victoria

Word of mouth is that the Commercial Hotel has excellent bar meals. My wife and I didn’t stick around for dinner because we wanted to hit the road back home before it got to late.

The Warden’s Food & Wine located in an old pub building on the southern portion of downtown is supposed to be the best place to go to try out local wines:

Picture of A Historic Hotel In Beechworth, Victoria

Not all of the old hotels serve as restaurants either such as the Beechworth Gallery seen below:

Picture of A Historic Hotel In Beechworth, Victoria

The old gallery building is located just outside of downtown and is a beautifully restored structure. The building is currently for sale and the asking price for the building is a cool $1 million dollars.  There are many other old hotels that primarily serve as restaurants scattered around the town as well. All of them are beautifully restored with some of them still providing hotel rooms for the night.

Next Posting: The Historic Churches of Beechworth

Note: If you have stayed or eaten at any of the old hotels of Beechworth please leave a comment of what you thought about the hotel.

On Walkabout In: The Historic Churches of Beechworth

Prior Posting: The Historic Hotels of Beechworth

—————————————————-

The historic city of Beechworth is filled with many historic churches with various forms of architecture. The amount of impressive churches spread out through such a small city is testament to the wealth Beechworth once possessed. The first pioneers to the area began holding religious services in tents in 1852. The first church building in Beechworth was constructed by Methodist pioneers in 1854 on the remains of a old school house:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The old brick building is no longer used as a church and is instead a meeting hall. Next to the old Methodist Church is a newer Methodist that now serves as the Beechworth Neighborhood Centre:

I borrowed this picture of the church from the net because the picture I took came out bad because of the heavy rain that was falling at the time. Across the street from the Methodist Church is the Anglican Christ Church, which was originally built in 1854 just a short while after the construction of the Methodist Church:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The tower was built in 1864 and houses a total of six bells. Inside the church the organ dates all the way back to 1887. Some adjacent buildings to the church is used as a meeting hall and a grammar school.

On the northern side of the city is the Uniting Church:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The first Presbyterian congregation began meeting in 1857 at the Star Hotel and eventually held services inside this church when it was constructed in 1858. There are a few other smaller churches located in Beechworth but these four are the largest and most noticeable since they are located downtown. If anyone knows any other interesting bits of history about these churches please leave a note in the comments section.

Next Posting: The Beechworth Cemetery

On Walkabout In: The Beechworth Historical & Cultural Precinct

One of the favorite things my wife and I like to do on the weekends here in Victoria is to drive around and explore the almost endless amounts of interesting small towns that dot the landscape of rural Victoria. One of the most interesting small towns we have come across is the old gold rush city of Beechworth:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

Beechworth is an old gold rush town with a colorful history located in northeastern Victoria:

Facts_on_Beechworth--Map

Gold was first discovered in Spring Creek that run through town in 1852. From that date the Gold Rush was on and the city of Beechworth was born. Gold was so abundant in the area that an early prospector actually found 14 pounds of gold in one day. Another early prospector found 50 pounds of gold in one week. There was so much gold that Donald Cameron, a politician from the city that was running for the first ever Victorian Parliamentary elections in 1855, rode through the city to campaign for office with a horse that had golden horseshoes. Cameron’s lavish horseshoes led to him winning the election and he is commemorated to this day with monument just outside of town from where he began his ride:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

By the 1880’s the gold in the city had largely run out but the fantastic wealth of the city has been preserved to this day with the entire city being designated as part of the Victorian national trust and thus perfectly restored to the condition the city was in during its gold rush period. The city is small with a population today of only about 2,800 people thus making it very easy to explore by foot.

Any tour to the city should begin at the Beechworth Town Hall:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The original town hall was built in 1859 but as the city grew a new town hall was needed and thus the building pictured above was built in 1888 to meet the demands of the growing town. The town hall today serves as the visitor information city for the town. If you want to get yourself a map, buy museum tickets, or find out about guided tours this is the place to go. The people working there are very helpful and we were able to get all the information we needed to really enhance our visit to the city.

Adjacent to the town hall is the Town Hall Gardens:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The park was built in 1876 with the fountain and rotunda dating from this period. The 19th century botanist Baron Ferdinand von Mueller was responsible for planting the variety of trees from around the world that can be seen in the park today. The most familiar trees for an American like myself were the California Redwood trees lining an entire side of the park:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The redwoods cannot grow as large as they do California because of the different climatic conditions in Australia but they still do grow to an impressive height in this foreign environment. Across the street from the park is the Beechworth jail which in Australian English is spelled gaol:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The gaol was built in 1864 and had a notorious reputation that include eight hangings. The prison once held 22 members of the infamous Ned Kelly gang. Ned Kelly and his gang were famous outlaws in the late 1800’s.


Famous portrait of Ned Kelly

In Australian English outlaws are known as bushrangers. Ned Kelly and his ganged robbed banks and trains throughout northern Victoria until the gang was finally destroyed during a final shootout with police in the small rural town of Glenrowan. Ned Kelly was captured after the gunfight and hanged in Melbourne.

The Beechworth gaol continued to be used by the Victorian government until 2004 when it was sold to a private investor who has yet to open the gaol to tourism.

Just one block over from the prison and across the street from the town hall is a number of government buildings:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

One of the buildings served as the home of the superintendent of police who the first superintendent was the man by the name of Robert O’Hara Burke.


Portrait of Robert O’Hara Burke

Burke is quite famous in Australia for being one of the co-leaders of the ill fated Burke & Willis expedition that left Melbourne to cross continent from south to north in 1860. Due to much bumbling and missteps both Burke and Willis both died during the expedition and only one man, John King completed the entire trip and made it back to Melbourne to talk about it.

The Chinese Protector’s office is also located in the sector of town. In 1855 there was only 400 Chinese residents in Beechworth; by 1857 there was over 4,000 and a government office had to be established to assist the Chinese residents in Beechworth. The office was used to document Chinese mining claims and settle any disputes between Chinese and white miners:

The city courthouse is located here as well where Ned Kelly stood trial here for murdering policemen from Mansfield that I previously posted about. Behind the courthouse is the jail where Ned Kelly and his mom were both imprisoned:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The cell on the left was the male cell where Ned Kelly was housed while the jail on the right is the female jail where his mom was kept. The cells are very small with little ventilation and no latrine. Not a pleasant place to be held.

Adjacent to the courthouse is the city telegraph station. This telegraph station is still operational today and you can still send messages around the world by telegraph, for a fee of course:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

A short walk from the telegraph station is the old city post office:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The old post office is still serving as the Beechworth post office to this day. It is quite a beautiful building. The post office was built in 1859 and was rebuilt with the clock tower in 1867 after a fire.

Across the street from the post office is the old Beechworth bank:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The bank was constructed like many of the buildings in Beechworth in the 1850s and much of the gold that was found in the creeks and hills around the city found its way ultimately into this bank. The building no longer operates as a bank and is actually a wine seller now, but it is still a well preserved building that you can still see the original gold vault inside of it.

The downtown area has a number of restaurants and cafes to choose from for lunch. My wife and I decided to try out the local Chinese restaurant:

Picture from Beechworth, Victoria

The restaurant like most buildings in Beechworth is in an old building that has been beautifully restored. The interior of the building was quite nice as well and the Chinese family that ran the place offered great service and a tasty meal. If you are looking for a good lunch and you like Chinese food I recommend this place.

The downtown area is an awesome place to explore on foot with beautifully restored buildings around every corner. I will discuss a few more of these buildings on my follow up postings.

Next Posting: The Historic Hotels of Beechworth